Chile’s Bicentennial: Celebrating what we are

Can a country as diverse as Chile be summed up in a single graphic image? Today some thoughts on the official Bicentennial Poster.

Chile loves “concursos”—contests, competitions—of all sorts. They may be of the playful, champion-determining type (sports, games, dances, etc.); the best-of type (the arts, literature, music, etc.); the who-shall-we-hire type; and the who-gets-the-bid type. So it really wasn’t surprising to see that the Bicentennial Committee sponsored a concurso for the official Bicentennial Poster. And here it is.

Chile’s Bicentennial Poster: Celebrating what we are.

The challenge was to graphically portray the idea of “celebrating what we are” (celebrar lo que somos), and designer Pilar Alemparte chose the snow-capped Andes as the predominant theme, with colorful ribbons for a celebratory effect (they also remind me of the kites we so often see flying with the mountains as a backdrop).

It’s a clean, simple, clear design. It’s a good design, but I’m missing something. The sea, for example. And the desert. And Patagonia. And Antarctica. And Rapa Nui (Easter Island). And Juan Fernández (Robinson Crusoe Island). And the fertile Central Valley. And the lakes and volcanoes and rivers and hot springs and salt flats…

The Andes are an imposing, dominating feature of Chile, the backbone of this wonderful country, but they are balanced by the ever-present lapping of ocean waves to the west, the hot, dry, mysterious desert to the north, and the cold, wet wonders of Patagonia and Antarctica to the south. They frame this place we call home and define—in many ways—how we live within it.

And there’s the rub. How we live within it. Celebrating who and what we are. I can’t find the “we” in this poster. The national identity,  Chileanness, the Chilenidad. I’m missing the human element.  Is it implied in the ribbons, perhaps? They symbolize the fiesta intended to represent the unifying factor. But do they represent a Chilean fiesta? Or could this poster represent any other mountainous country?

I am the first to admit that I am not designer and that it is easy to critique and criticize the work that others have put so much effort into–not only this designer, but the entire team that chose this image–but I wish the human side were present.  I ask myself what might do the trick for me. As simple inclusion that would bring some humanness, some Chileanness into the image. And I come up with a kite. One of those typical Chilean flag kites flying over those mountains, with the colorful ribbons streaming down from it.

I’ve been thinking about this poster for a while, and would like to know what the rest of you think. Taking into consideration that the challenge was a big one, and that Chile’s diversity is one of its most wonderful gifts—and precisely what makes it so difficult to sum up in a clean, clear message, I turn it over to you. Does it accomplish the task of “celebrating what we are”?

September: the month of Chilenidad

September: the month of Chilenidad

Chilenidad. What a great word. It means “Chileanness,” and Chileans take it very seriously indeed. And September, the month of Independence Day on September 18 (also taken very seriously) AKA “El Dieciocho” and Fiestas Patrias (ditto) and especially this one, the 200^th 18^th, makes for some pretty good reasons to think just exactly what Chilenidad is all about.

A small Andean town deep in the Elqui Valley prepares for "18" with Chilean flag banners

Wikipedia (c’mon, admit it, we all use it!) says Chilenidad is:

Goooool Chile! First World Cup Win

Winning a World Cup match has a way of putting smiles on peoples faces, and all of Chile is happy this morning!

La Tercera splashes the news: Historic Win: that's what we want to see!

Doesn’t matter that it’s a cold, gray, drizzly, dreary day in Santiago. The streets are filling with happy people in silly red, white and blue hats (Chile’s national colors), blowing their red cornetas (Chile’s own form of vuvuzela), draped in flags, and deciding whether to really go to work or school or just keep reveling in the streets.

Día del Patrimonio Nacional 2010- Chilean National Heritage Day

The last Sunday of May is one of my favorite days in Chile. Since 1999, it is the Día del Patrimonio Nacional—National Heritage Day—in which many buildings, both public and private, many of which are usually closed to the public, open their doors to the public. This is your chance to get a peek into some of those buildings you’ve been wondering about…

Check out the entire list of activities for the entire country at www.monumentos.cl, but the site is a bit cumbersome (and in Spanish, if that’s an issue), so here’s a run-down. Take a quick read, get your walking shoes on, grab you camera, and get out there to enjoy this gorgeous Sunday morning!

A word of warning–if there’s a place you’re particularly interested in, this is your chance because there is no guarantee it will be open again next year!

For a list of places to visit on this special day… or for a route to follow any time of the years, read on…

Valparaíso by Trolley

What’s summer without a bit of travel, exploration, fun, and tourism? “Valparaíso en un Trolley” dishes out a bit of all that and more. Theater troupe Teatro de la Historia fills the seats of a 1950s-era green and yellow “trolebus” and rolls out on a tour that takes delightful jabs at the city’s characters while simultaneously conveying pride in this one-of-a-kind city.

Valparaíso, Chile’s response to Lisbon and San Francisco, has a mystique all its own. While the famous century-old ascensores–funicular cars (oddly called elevators) save residents, tourists, and even local dogs the huffing and puffing of getting to the funky residential top of its many hills, those who need to get around old town in the lower part of the city—the business district, the port, the market, the principal plazas, and sailor central, may choose to do so via old-time electric trolley cars.

Aspiring "tourism scientist" Filomena finishes her internship on the trolley

Valparaíso en un Trolley pays playful homage to the city’s history, culture, and characters— self-absorbed authorities and social dilettantes, sailors who come and go, the women left behind, the shadier side of the old port, team pride (Go Santiago Wanderers!), night life, local music, pituco high-brow and flaite, young and old.

Bag-snatching "pirate" in front of the Iglesia de la Matriz, Valparaíso's oldest church, founded in 1559

Members of Manona Orquesta in the Port (yes, that's a donkey in the background!)

Returning sailor facing the wrath of one of his many "women in every port"

Having a handle on Chilean Spanish would definitely be helpful for getting the full effect of the show (¿cachái?), but even if you don’t speak Chilensis (the Glossary is a good place to test your ability) the action is fast paced and physical-visual enough that all are sure to have a great time. A delightful way to pass a couple hours on a Friday or Saturday evening during January and February.

Manona Orquesta in Tertulia Bar (Esmeralda 1083, Valpo)

Passengers on the trolley

Dates: Fridays & Saturdays in January & February, 2010
Time: 7:00 PM
Price: $10,000 / person (includes sandwich,  drink & entertainment at Tertulia Bar)
Language: Colloquial Chilean Spanish (chilensis)
Reservations: 9-8-487-2958
Meeting Point: Trolley Station, Av. Argentina & Chacabuco, Valparaíso

More info: www.valparaisoenuntrolley.blogspot.com

For more on Chilean trolleys, in continuous operation in Valparaíso since 1952, see: Trolebuses de Chile

Bicentennial Chile Dog: And we have a winner!

Chile has a thing about its dogs, especially its quiltros!

Dog representing Central Chile on mural outside old Diego Portales building on Alameda

Love ‘em–or not–they’re part of the national culture and landscape and will have their place in the limelight during Chile’s 2010 Bicentennial celebrations.

Remember the government-sponsored search for the Bicentennial Chile Dog ? The National Mutt photo competition? Pitching for the perfectly pictorial pooch project? The hunt for the Quiltro del Bicentenario? Well the results are in and the winners declared.

The judges (members of the Bicentennial Commission, the Photographic Heritage Corporation, and several photographers) poured over the 700 photos of canine candidates to find just the one that represented the concept of “quiltro” in Chile, guided by the DRAE definition: a dog of mixed breed… and have found their mutt of the hour:

And the winner is…… Cachupín!

1st Prize: "Si para ser felices" by Oscar Fuentes, Chillán

Oscar Fuentes of Chillán won first prize (a Nikon Reflex Digital Camera d-40 w/ 18-55 lens) with his image “Si para ser felices” of a dog he calls “Cachupín” and its master, both of whom appear a bit down and out, but the judges appreciated the shot for the story it seems to relay: the pup’s cocked head and perked ears showing attention to his master, who appears to be counting change, while the dog waits patiently for a bit of attention. Fuentes explains that “the dog is not observing the money, but rather the intentions of being fed… and his only means of payment are faithfulness, happiness, and in cases like this one, the enormous need for companionship.” He goes on to say that “among the many facets of this particular chapter in our culture, it is important to emphasize this other side of the exacerbated contempt of street dogs.”

The runners up:

Second Prize

2nd prize: "Sensei" by Gabriela Manríquez, Temuco

Photo Title: “Sensei”
Photographer: Gabriela Manríquez
City: Temuco
Prize: Nikon Coolpix L-15 Camera

Third Prize

3rd Prize "Gótico" by Carlos Agurto, Santiago (Recoleta)

Photo Title: “Gótico”
Photographer: Carlos Agurto
City: Santiago, Recoleta
Prize: Nikon Coolpix L-14 Camera

And 3 Honorable Mentions, who received $100.000 (Chilean pesos) each:

Honorable Mention: "Alambrito" by Gianinna Schade, Maipú

Honorable Mention: "Libertad" by Alvaro Hoppe, Vitacura

Honorable Mention: "Julio come en Julio" by Catalina Illmer, Las Condes

Congratulations to all the winners and the corresponding pooches!

The public commentary–pro and con–is already starting to flow in (See, for example, Cooperativa’s “Si para ser felices…” ganó concurso de fotografía del “Quiltro del Bicentenario,” where the comments range from congratulations, happiness, and pride, to indignation and criticism).

And YOUR opinion?

Like the photo?
Is this a shot that should represent Chile and Chileans in its bicentennial hour of glory?
Should we be celebrating its street dogs?
Should Chile be spending money on this kind of project?
Got something else on your mind?

See other dog-related posts on Cachando Chile:

Lost Dogs: Quiltros  & Hero Dogs (November 25, 2009)

In Search of the Bicentennial Chile Dog (October 30, 2009)

Chile: It’s a Dog’s World (April 14, 2009)

** All images are reproduced here with permission from the Chile Bicentenario Commission.
For more information on the competition, see ChileBicentario: “Si para ser felices...”.

Ways to Alienate a Chilean

It’s bound to happen. Spend any amount of time in a culture that’s not your own and your foot will certainly end up in your mouth at some point. Sports, politics, and religion aside, there are plenty of other ways to meter la pata in Chile. Over the years I’ve stumbled on a few (hard not to take a nose dive once in a while with that foot in mouth thing going on). Being from the “learn from my mistakes” camp, I thought I’d share.

A few faux pas a la chilena:

Tell them you don’t like sandwiches

Chileans love sandwiches, or “sánguches” in the local vernacular. They eat them for breakfast, onces (tea), snacks, and late night noshing. As the only gringa on a 2-week road trip with Chilean friends, I rebelled after about a week of so much ham and cheese on bread (and not much else) and they all looked at me like I was from Mars. To be fair, Chile has a pretty impressive line-up of granddaddy sánguches that will out-whop the whopper any day (check out “Sánguches”). (Too bad I wasn’t seeing any on that particular trip!)

Tell them you don’t get the concept of onces

Onces—or té (tea) in more uppity circles—is a Chilean gastronomic institution. Inspired by the British tea, people gather in the early evening (mostly on weekends these days) to “ruin their dinner” (yikes, I’m channeling my mother!) for a carb fest of sandwiches (ham, cheese, and avocado are customary) and/or toast and jam, cookies, cake, and even ice cream (surprisingly often in reverse order). Oh, and the cup of tea is placed in front of you with the plate of food behind it, so that all the crumbs fall into the cup. Don’t try and change it around. It’s no use.

(Onces merits an entire post of its own… duly acknowledged and forthcoming).

Tell them you don’t like Joan Manuel Serrat

I’m sure this is generational and probably occurs throughout the entire Spanish-speaking world, but stating that this 60-something Barcelona-born singer’s pronounced and seemingly affected warble just doesn’t do it for you will not win friends and influence people.  It seems to generate the kind of reaction I could imagine if someone uttered  something as unthinkable as “the Beatles suck.”  Rolling my eyes and turning an indifferent ear to this 1970s “ídolo total” has earned me gasps and sneers on more than one occasion… you’d think I’d learn to keep my mouth shut, ¿no?

Tell them that they, or someone they care about, is “cynical”

This is one of those false cognates that can get you into really hot water. In English, it means “scornful of the motives or virtues of others.” In Spanish it is someone who “muestra cinicismo, desverguenza, en el mentir.” A despicable and remorseless liar. Ouch! You’re sure to wind up doing a lot of explaining and eggshell treading if you fall into that trap! Get the full story at: Cyncial or Cínico)

Tell them that their national anthem is not the best in the world

I’ve never fallen into this trap myself, because frankly, just about anything is better than the US national anthem (which requires a nearly inhuman vocal range and 10 years of serious operatic study before attempting it). And on the other hand, I do think that the Chilean version is rather nice. But Chileans go beyond “rather nice.” They really do know the words, sing loud and clear, and will swear to you that it won a competition for the “Best National Anthem in the World.” And damned if I can find anyone who doesn’t believe it lock, stock, and barrel! Here, take a look and decide for yourself:

I’m sure there are plenty of other ways to rile up Chilean pride and turn yourself into the bad guy… I bet you even have a few tales of your own to tell! Leave a comment here—or, if you like—write your own blog post and we’ll link up!

Dr. Annje tells her side of the story at Annje Unabashed.

And Sara has a few things to add at the Chilenguita Diaries.

Emily gets her 2 pesos in too, check her story out at Don’t Call Me Gringa.

Abby goes straight to where the heart is (the sandwich, of course) at Abby’s Line.

We can’t leave Lucie out, so here’s her list at Gringa Gone South.

Maeskizzle goes a step further by also adding ways to win over Chileans at Transcultural Vogueing.

Eileen comes through with her own bearshapedspherical advice on how to alienate–and then not–by making a “no” sound like a “yes” at Bearshapedsphere.

La Abejita is joining a bit late, but we don’t mind… especially since she took a twist of her own, turned it around, and wrote about the things that Chileans do to alienate foreigners here in Chile… check it out the Buzz de La Abeja.

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And now for Phase 2: Let’s move on to the counterpart to this post: Finding your way in to Chile (or how to unalienate yourself!)

Chile’s Parada Militar: gotta love a parade

September has come and gone and the 199^th Fiestas Patrias on the 18^th are a happy memory, as is this year’s Parada Militar—the Military Parade—which happens every year on September 19^th, the Día de las Glorias del Ejército (Armed Forces Day).

This was actually the first time I’d ever been to the Parade. I generally steer clear of all things military, but I decided that this was the year to make the trek to Parque O’Higgins and check it out. Eileen from Bearshapedsphere went too, but she was much faster about getting her post up, and you can check that out here: Chile’s Sept 18th/19th Parada Militar/Military Parade. In words and pictures.

So what’s taken me so long? Fair enough. True confession. I got carried away with the camera and took some 550 shots and have been having a great time Photoshopping away ever since. No, I’m not going to show you all the shots… although I’d love to show you far more than I’ve selected here, but they’ll have to wait for another time.

The parade was set to start at 2:45, so we thought we were pretty clever getting there by 1:00, but right there we were showing our gringa naiveté, because several thousand  earlier birds already had a pretty tight choke hold on those tasty worms we were all after, which is to say that the place was packed and there was not a spot to be found that wasn’t already 3 deep in people lining the parade grounds. No matter. We were there to people watch anyway, and that we certainly did.

We entered the park and followed the crowd through the maze of vendors selling everything from cotton candy to kites to toilet seat covers (who buys toilet seat cover sets at a parade?), but mostly food. Lots of food:

Just a sampling of parade fare

Many people came equipped with picnics, but plenty were taking advantage of (from left to right) the (1) empanadas de pino (beef empanadas), (2) fresh fruit salad, (3) fresh squeezed orange juice, (4) candied apples and sweet popcorn, (5) more empanadas, (6) guatitas and longaniza (tripe and sausage, a combination I’ve never seen offered in public before), and (7) the ever-famous mote con huesillo (see Dieciocho for a discussion on this favorite dessert/drink).

We spent a lot of time wandering through the park and finally managed to wrangle a not-so-great spot where we watched the first part of the parade, which always includes huasos offering the president chicha in a cacho (partially fermented grape juice in a silver-rimmed cow horn). We were much too far away to see it, but both the huasos and the president herself were kind enough to head on down our way. She was clearly glad to see us. Probably pretty amazed to see how cleverly Eileen dangles from tall, spiky fences with one hand while taking pictures with the other.

Chicha-bearing huasos and President Michelle Bachelet

We didn’t stay put very long. Not only did we not realize that to get a good position we would have had to arrive at the crack of dawn, but also that we were clearly not dressed properly either. It turns out that parade attire de rigueur includes small children as head and shoulder wear.

We did manage to catch glimpses of some pretty snazzy uniforms though.

So we moseyed along out through the very large park, making our way to the opposite side, taking in the sites, watching the people, enjoying the day. The soldiers weren’t the only ones in uniform, it turned out. Standard-issue for little girls was definitely flowered huasa/china dresses (again, see the comments on the Dieciocho post for a full explanation of what that is all about). There were a lot of them, and they sure were cute.

Little girls dress up as huasitas (or chinas) for the Independece Day festivities

When we finally got to the other side, we discovered that we had quite cleverly outwitted the crowds, and by standing along Avenida Beauchef, far from the bandstand madness within, we had perfect access to the parade as the marching groups exited the park.

This year some 11,500 members of the armed forces and police (carabineros) marched–300 more than last year. There were also more women in uniform than ever, 892 this year: 218 Army, 199 Navy, 101 Air Force, 373 Carabinera-Police).

Even the dogs love a good parade (©MSnookT 2009)

Next generation

Anyone who has ever spent any time in Santiago knows that the dogs like to participate in civic life and show up everywhere.  (See the post on “It’s a Dog’s World“).

Everyone wants to get in on the act, and it seems that soldiers just keep getting younger and younger all the time! This kid was just marching along, all on his own, pretty oblivious to all the attention he attracted. We never did find out who he belonged to!

My favorites–in any parade–are the bands. I love to get right out in the middle with my camera and let the bands pass me–the feeling of being surrounded by all the drumming gets me going, and it’s by far the best way to get in close for some real action shots. In fact, I spent about 20 minutes in the middle of the street and chasing tuba players until some official finally kicked me out.  (If you look closely enough at the tubas, you’ll see that they include a self portrait!)