Category Archives: Identity

Viva Chile, Mierda!

Yes, I know that Viva Chile, Mierda is an unlikely title for  a post about a country one loves, but it’s an expression that truly bears comment—especially since the President himself used it on camera recently when he announced that all 33 miners were alive and well 700 meters beneath the ground 17 days after the mine they are in collapsed.

Chilean Flag_tsunami_Constitucion ©M Snook T 2010

A Chilean flag hangs from the remains of a house in Constitución destroyed by the tsunami that followed the February 2010 earthquake

I’ve heard this expression a zillion times, but have to confess that I never really though much about it, and certainly did not understand it until these past couple of weeks.

For non-Spanish speakers, the literal translation is Long Live Chile, Shit. See what I mean? A highly unlikely expression to use in the context of celebrating this country’s bicentennial, but it is, in fact, a compliment.

I confess that I had been confused, that when spoken, the comma is left out, so I thought the “mierda” referred to Chile, which would be derogatory indeed, and that the “Viva” was sarcastic.

Hearing the president use it confused me even more. First of all, I don’t think I’ve ever heard a president—of any country—knowingly swear on camera. Not that I think presidents don’t swear—they’re human and probably have a lot more reasons to swear than the rest of us, but protocol and decorum prevent such candid expressions. And then, since I thought it was negative, it just seemed very strange for a president to use that expression and especially in a happy moment!

Begin new linguistic investigation. (Yes, it’s true, the learning process never ends!)

So, it turns out that it’s actually a positive statement, which is more easily understood with comma inserted, which would make a more correct translation be something along the lines of “Viva Chile, Damn it!” in which the mierda emphasizes the Viva Chile expression.

Chileans come up against a lot of challenges, and this, its Bicentennial year is truly a case in point. This long, narrow strip of land—beautiful and bountiful as it is—does not offer up its treasures easily. The earth gets restless on a fairly regular basis (major earthquake on February 27, hundreds of aftershocks to follow). The sea rises us as well, and major tsunami claims more lives that the quake. Not too many months later, the earth shifts its weight again and 33 miners get swallowed alive half a mile down. We have droughts; we have floods, and we have human-generated turmoil as well.

Life and nature hands Chileans some real challenges, and those who can cut it are tough—and not likely to give up what they’ve earned very easily, damn it!

The historical poop on Viva Chile, Mierda

(Sorry, pun absolutely intended–just couldn’t resist–what can I say, I am a gringa after all…)

This expression came up in the comments left after a recent post on Chilenidad and I wondered where the expression came from. Cachando Chile friend and frequent commenter explained that of the different possibilities, the most plausible is that it seems to have started during the Guerra del Pacífico (War of the Pacific 1879–1884, between Chile and Perú). Apparently the Peruvians were given to shouting “Viva Perú, Carajo!” to which the Chileans supposedly responded: “Viva Chile, mi hermosa patria!” (which sounds, to my gringa ear, a bit far-fetchedly fluffy side for soldiers at war). So here’s the interesting part: the mi hermosa patria (me air-mo-sa patria) seems to have been switched midstream, perhaps in the face-to-face of a bayonet, from mi hermosa to me-air-da! Viva Chile, mi-heeeeer-mos-da! Ta-dah! We get today’s ¡Viva Chile Mierda!, a rallying cry, an emphatic “Damn! This is MY country!! An expression of pride and determination, of “we’ve worked hard and earned this and no one, not even Mother Nature, is going to take it from us!

Lindo ¿no?

In searching around for more information and history on the expression, I discovered a poem written by Fernando Alegría. Here it is in Spanish. Click here for my translation into English.

¡Viva Chile Mierda!

Cuando al alba sale el huaso a destapar estrellas
y, mojado de rocío, enciende el fuego en sus espuelas
cuando el caballo colorado salta la barra del mar
y se estremece el lago con una lenta bruma de patos,
cuando cae el recio alerce y en sus ramas cae el cielo:
digo con nostalgia ¡VIVA CHILE MIERDA!

Cuando el buzo ilumina su escafandra
y las ballenas se acercan a mamar en el vientre de las lanchas
cuando cae al fondo del océano la osamenta de la patria
y como vaca muerta la arrastra la ola milenaria
cuando explota el carbón y se enciende la Antártida:
digo, pensativo, ¡VIVA CHILE MIERDA!

Cuando se viene el invierno flotando en el Mapocho
como un muerto atado con alambres, con flores y con tarros
y lo lamen los perros y se aleja embalsamado de gatos
cuando se lleva un niño y otro niño dormido en su escarcha
y se va revolviendo sus grises ataúdes de saco:
digo enfurecido ¡VIVA CHILE MIERDA!

Cuando en noche de luna crece una población callampa
cuando se cae una escuela y se apaga una fábrica
cuando fallece un puerto en el Norte y con arena lo tapan
cuando Santiago se apesta y se oxidan sus blancas plazas
cuando se jubila el vino y las viudas empeñan sus casas:
digo cabeza bajo ¡VIVA CHILE MIERDA!

Me pregunto de repente y asombrado, por qué
diré Viva Chile Mierda y no Mier… mosa Patria?
quizás en mi ignorancia repito el eco de otro eco:
¡Viva! dice el roto con la pepa de oro entre los dedos
¡Chile! dice el viento al verde cielo de los ebrios valles
¡Mierda! responde el sapo a la vieja bruja de Talagante
¿Qué problema tan profundo se esconde en las líneas de mi mano?

¿Es mi país una ilusión que me sigue como la sombra al perro?
¿No hay Viva entre nosotros sin su Mierda, compañeros?
la una para el esclavo, la otra para el encomendero
la una para el que explota salitre, cobre, carbón, ganado
la otra para el que vive su muerte subterránea de minero.
Y como penamos y vivimos en pequeña faja de abismo
frente al vacío alguien gritó la maldición primero.

¿Fue un soldado, herido en la batalla de Rancagua?
¿Fue un marino en Angamos? ¿Un cabo en Cancha Rayada?
¿Fue un huelguista en La Coruña? ¿Un puño cerrado en San Gregorio?
¿O un pascuense desangrándose en la noche de sus playas?
¿No cantó el payador su soledad a lo divino
y a lo humano se ahorcó con cuerdas de guitarra?
¿No siguió al Santísimo a caballo y a cuchillás mantuvo al diablo raya?
¡Ah!, qué empresa tan gigante para destino tan menguado.
Entre nieve y mar, con toda el alma, nos damos contra un rumbo ya tapiado,
por consecuencia, en la mañana cuando Dios nos desconoce,
cuando alzado a medianoche nos sacude un terremoto,
cuando el mar saquea nuestras casas y se esconde entre los bosques,
cuando Chile ya no puede estar seguro de sus mapas
y cantamos, como un gallo que ha de picar el sol en pedazos,
digo, con firmeza, ¡VIVA CHILE MIERDA!

Y lo que digo es un grito de combate
oración sin fin, voz de partida, fiero acicate
espuelazo sangriento con las riendas al aire
galopón del potro chileno a través de las edades
es crujido de capas terrestres, anillo de fuego,
vieja ola azul de claros témpanos pujantes.

País – Pájaro, raíz vegetal, rincón donde el mundo se cierra,
quien lo grite no tendrá paz, caerá para seguir adelante.
Y porque de isla en isla, del mar a la cordillera,
de una soledad a otra, como de una estrella a otra estrella,
nos irá aullando en los oídos la sentencia de la tierra:
digo, finalmente, ¡VIVA CHILE MIERDA!

Trompo: Give it a whirl!

Ever spun a top? A real one made of wood, wrapped in string, and thrown to make it spin? In Chile it’s called a “trompo” and is popular with men of all ages…and certainly not as easy as it looks!

Chilean Trompo, or spinning top  ©M Snook

A spinning "trompo" or top at a typical Chilean fonda

The  sense of Chilenidad—Chile’s national identity—the collection of all that makes up a spirit of being Chilean—is composed of many different aspects, one of which is games, and one of the oldest is the trompo, a simple wooden cone-shaped yet rounded toy with a metal tip that is thrown so that it spins upright. Once you get the basic tossing down, you start with tricks, such as picking it up to spin on the palm of your hand or even throwing it so that it lands—spinning—in your hand without ever having touched the ground.

One year we bought trompos for all the guys in my family—gringos every one—and not a one could make the darn things work. They insisted it couldn’t be done. Step forward non-English-speaking Chilean husband… It was his moment of glory as he wrapped the string and tossed the trompo out onto the driveway and the rest stood drop-jawed like little kids, begging to try it again!

September: the month of Chilenidad

September: the month of Chilenidad

Chilenidad. What a great word. It means “Chileanness,” and Chileans take it very seriously indeed. And September, the month of Independence Day on September 18 (also taken very seriously) AKA “El Dieciocho” and Fiestas Patrias (ditto) and especially this one, the 200th 18th, makes for some pretty good reasons to think just exactly what Chilenidad is all about.

Chilean Flag banners in Andean Town © M Snook

A small Andean town deep in the Elqui Valley prepares for "18" with Chilean flag banners

Wikipedia (c’mon, admit it, we all use it!) says Chilenidad is:

“The term used in Chile to describe the set of cultural expressions that have originated or been adopted in Chilean territory and whose use has lasted over time, been transmitted from one generation to the next, and that now make up the national identity.”
(my translation)

I’d like to spend this month exploring Chilenidad here at Cachando Chile. So, barring work crises and other factors beyond my control, I’ll be rummaging around in the Chileanest of all Chilean things that contribute to the sense of national identity, to Chilenedad… Sure, that’s what Cachando Chile is about all the time, but let’s get down to the nitty gritty and find out what Chileans think about what makes them Chilean.

We’ll look at food, and symbols, and beliefs, and language, and traditions, and customs, and fiestas, and celebrations, and games, and music, and dances, and characters, and shared history, and wildlife, and anything else that I—make that WE—can come up with to define what is Chilean! That’s right—WE—I would REALLY love your suggestions!

So let’s start right now:

Are you Chilean? What does Chilenidad mean to you?

Are you a foreigner in Chile? What does Chilenidad mean to YOU?

Chile does it again! Chile 1-Switzerland 0

Grande Chile! Chile is now 2 for 2 in the first round of the World Cup!

Chile 1, Suiza 9, Copa Mundial 2010 (Photo La Tercera, 21 de junio de 2010)

Diario La Tercera on-line: "Chile beats Switzerland and now one of the World Cup Top 4"

Who knew I liked fútbol? Certainly not me–I had no idea! But there I was this morning on my feet, cheering for Chile, yelling at the referee, complaining about all the theatrics the Swiss were pulling, and jumping for joy when Chile scored the goal that won them their second game in this, the first round of the 2010 World Cup. Continue reading

Goooool Chile! First World Cup Win

Winning a World Cup match has a way of putting smiles on peoples faces, and all of Chile is happy this morning!

Chile beats Honduras in first World Cup match

La Tercera splashes the news: Historic Win: that's what we want to see!

Doesn’t matter that it’s a cold, gray, drizzly, dreary day in Santiago. The streets are filling with happy people in silly red, white and blue hats (Chile’s national colors), blowing their red cornetas (Chile’s own form of vuvuzela), draped in flags, and deciding whether to really go to work or school or just keep reveling in the streets. Continue reading

Chile: the Sense and Senses of Travel

Ever thought about the senses you use when you travel? No matter what kind of traveler you are—intellectual, cultural, adrenaline seeker, low-budget backpacker, VIP all the way—it’s your senses that make that experience possible.

5 Senses ©M Snook

At the most basic biological level, our senses are what allow our inner-being “real” self to perceive and interact with that which is not contained within our own skin. To be more scientific about it, the human body has five physiological means of obtaining perceptual input: vision, audition, olfaction, gustation, and tactition. But enough of science. What it boils down to is that our senses are the medium of communication between ourselves and the world around us. Of course a lifetime of collected experiences and acquired knowledge allows us to reflect upon and interpret that sensual information, but it all begins with the body’s five basic means of interacting with the world.

When we are within our comfort zones, our senses kick back, relax, doze off in the Barcalounger, but when we travel and encounter much that is new, our internal communications media necessarily snap to attention and go into overdrive receiving and even overloading on all the new data coming in (which is just one of the reasons travel can be exhausting). And the newer the experience, the more we put those senses through the ringer as they do their darnedest to try and help us understand what is going on around us. Our senses are trying to help us “make sense” of all that is new!

So what senses do we use when traveling? Let’s set aside both common and sixth sense (both vital while on the road) for the moment and concentrate on the basic five. Assuming you have all your senses in tact, how would you order your priority levels for sight, hearing, smell, taste, and touch. It would also be interesting to know what takes priority when one or more of those senses is impaired. I would really love to hear some feedback on this! Continue reading

Chile’s Colo Colo Makes History (Blast from the Past)

Chilean footbal club Colo ColoToday, June 5, is an important day in Chilean history. What’s that? Not on the official list you say? No pu (as we say in buen chileno), it’s not. There are “official” important days—holidays and such—and then there are days that live long in the hearts of the people. Sure, not everyone can recite the exact date, but there are few who claim no memory of the event.

Let’s be more specific. June 5, 1991. Got it now? Still got nuthin? If you’re in Chile, ask a taxi driver, the person in the kiosko (newsstand), the guy on the street, heck, the guy sitting next to you wherever you are right now… watch them get almost teary-eyed with emotion and pride. Continue reading

Chilean Wine People: the stories behind the quake

Dear Cachando Chile Readers…

I will be pretty much off-line for the next few days as I take some time to visit the wineries in the areas most affected by Chile’s recent earthquake.

As many of you know, I work in Chile’s wine industry, writing about and translating for many of the country’s wineries. As I’m sure most of you also know, many of the wineries south of Santiago were badly affected by the recent earthquake. Continue reading